Wine Fair at Schloss Hugenpoet—or—Dutta drinks her way through….
…right over to Andi Kollwentz from Austria. Always a Burgenländer benchmark where red wine is concerned—but I’m trying the two whites. Both 100% Chardonnay. And although I know the previous vintages, once more I’m astonished by the quality and the style. First came Tatschler 2009 in a Zalto Universal glass, which you get here upon paying 20€ deposit. And equally important as the appropriate glass—there are no dishcloth aromas clinging to it! That has happened elsewhere…
Tatschler: southeastern exposure on the Leithigebirge, grown in decomposed slate soils with bits of limestone. Great presence, round fruit, lovely minerality... But I liked Gloria even better, grown in the most highly situated vineyard in the hills—and here the fossil limestone really comes through. Slightly reticent at first, a bit austere, but equipped with great finesse and a marvellous finish. What a wine! Mr Kollwentz likes wines grown in limestone—the ones from Germany as well. He’s not a crowd-pleaser. That’s exactly my own point of view. Not without reason are his red wines so famous.